Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
